One of two Chemeketan climbs I did in 2012. This Mt. Washington climb was led by Mike Niemeyer. We left the Big Lake campground around 7am. It was a beautiful clear summer day. Started out with sunscreen on. Being able to see the summit of Mt. Washington was both exciting and daunting at the same time.
We stayed on the south side of the lake and made our way through the freshly burnt areas until we reached the PCT. Once on the PCT we made our way to the cairn indicating the climbers trail. We headed east up the climber's trail which was pretty well maintained. There was only a few spots where downed trees led to new paths. Once we reached the North Ridge some of our team stashed their trekking poles. We refueled and made our way up the ridge.
Right around this time I had come to learn that the BUTT of my pants was completely ripped. Luckily the mesh inner lining and my boxers prevented permanent blinding of my fellow climbers. This was unfortunate but not enough to stop me from wanting to summit. :)
Looking at the Summit Block on Mt. Washington
Once we got to the notch we left our packs, put on our helmets and harnesses and carried any gear we would take to the summit and back. We went up the second ramp, which is supposed to be easier. Mike led the climb up and protected the route where he could. Two mindless climbers who had ran past us earlier on the ridge were already rappelling back down over our heads. It was definitely terrifying to hear and see rocks coming down over top of you. Luckily due to the exposure above us the rocks just flew past us.
Three Finger Jack and Mt. Jefferson from Mt. Washington
The crux of the climb was about 50' up the ramp where there is a chimney. We had heard advice to "not get sucked into the chimney". There wasn't an easy way up if you get in too far so it took me a second but I stood back and looked at what needed to be done and did it.
Mike protected 3 pitches to the top, which I am sure was conservative, but it was some nice insurance. I was more worried about kicking rocks down on my fellow climbers then I was about falling. Shortly there after we reached the summit. We noticed a fire East of Mt. Hood that had grown quite massive by the time we reached the summit. It started creating it's own thunderhead.
Chemeketan Summit Team
Mason and Mike setting up a rappel
After high fives, and filling out the summit register, we started back down. Mason and Mike set up 3 rappels to get us back down to the notch. The last rappel was the most fun as it was exposed and over-hung a bit. I actually didn't really feel scared, it was a fun experience.
Once we made it safely back to the notch we slogged all the way back to the trailhead. After wading through the dusty PCT and being sun-cooked the people on Big Lake taunted us by playing in the water with their boats. I really wanted to just jump in the water but we were short on time and it was getting late.
This was my first alpine rock climb and I can certainly say it won't be my last.
Final Stats: Summit: Yes Elevation Gain: 3100' Round Trip Distance: 11+ miles Round Trip Time: 12 hours
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